Are your factory clip-in pedals too narrow, or are you looking to swap out your cycling cleats for a comfortable, rock-solid flat pedal that lets you ride with your favorite standard athletic running shoes?
The Sole SB1200 Touchscreen Indoor Cycle is built around a heavy 35.27 lb chrome flywheel and a 100-level magnetic resistance matrix. Because indoor studio cycling demands immense downward foot pressure—especially during out-of-the-saddle hill climbs or aggressive speed intervals—your connection to the crankset must be secure and flex-free.
Our Premium Aftermarket Black Aluminum Alloy Flat Pedal Set features an extra-wide, low-profile platform profile. This set replaces the factory toe-cage/SPD combo pedals, giving you a massive, ultra-stable surface that accommodates any standard training shoe, running sneaker, or barefoot-style shoe without slipping.
Using cheap plastic utility pedals or soft pot-metal commuter pedals on a high-resistance spin bike can cause pedal spindle flexing, annoying internal clicking noises, or dangerous thread-shearing failures mid-sprint.
CNC-Machined 6061 Aluminum Alloy: Forged and precision-cut from aircraft-grade aluminum alloy, delivering maximum structural stiffness to eliminate foot-flex energy loss without cracking under heavy loading.
Oversized 9/16-Inch Chromoly Axle: Built around a heat-treated, high-strength 9/16" Chrome-Moly steel spindle that fits perfectly into the Sole SB1200's heavy-duty 170mm crank arms.
Sealed Cartridge DU Bearings: Outfitted with an internal dual-lubricated sealing configuration. This isolates the internal spinning bearings from airborne gym dust, carpet fibers, and salt-heavy sweat drops, ensuring smooth rotation without developing rough spots.
Anti-Slip Hex-Head Traction Pins: Equipped with removable, low-profile perimeter grip pins on each side of the platform to lock your shoe soles firmly into place, preventing dangerous foot slips when your cadence climbs past 100 RPM.
Replacing the pedals on your SB1200 takes less than 10 minutes using a standard 15mm open-ended pedal wrench or an 6mm/8mm Allen key. However, to avoid stripping out your bike's expensive aluminum crankset, you must follow the laws of pedal threading:
The Left-Side Mechanical Law: The Right Pedal (stamped with an "R" on the axle spindle) features standard threads. You turn it clockwise to tighten it into the right crank arm. The Left Pedal (stamped with an "L" on the axle spindle) is reverse-threaded. You must turn the left pedal spindle counter-clockwise to tighten it into the left crank arm.
Always hand-thread both axles into the crank arms for at least 4 to 5 full turns before touching them with a metal wrench. If you feel any hard resistance right away, back the pedal out—forcing a misaligned steel pedal axle into an aluminum crank arm will cross-thread and ruin the crank arm instantly.
Clean the Crank Threads: Before installing your new black alloy set, use a clean paper towel or old toothbrush to wipe out any metal shavings or old grease from the internal threads of the bike's crank arms.
Apply Thread Lubricant: Apply a tiny dab of standard bicycle grease or anti-seize lubricant to the threads of your new pedals. This ensures a tight, squeak-free seal and guarantees you can easily remove the pedals years down the road.
Check Pin Tightness: Use a small hex wrench to ensure the pre-installed black traction pins are snugged down tight into the pedal platform before your first high-intensity training session.
Bring rock-solid stability and total footwear freedom to your indoor studio climbs